Back in June I happened upon an enticing link to a Ladies Motorcycling Ride in Pakistan in September. What intrigued me was that it was not just a ride but included some opportunities for connection with local female rider groups. It was being run by “A Different Agenda” (ADA) in conjunction with the Women Riders’ World Relay group, and the group’s inspiring American CEO and podcaster Liza Miller.
I mentioned the concept to my encouraging husband, who said well you had better sign up if you want to go. “Nec minit” I had paid my deposit and it was a done deal.
When telling friends both riding and non-riding about my impending trip, it was either “wow that’s exciting!” or “Are you crazy, you will become an ISIS bride…”
At the past two Horizons Unlimited Traveller meetings here in Queensland, there have been presentations by Liz from Karakorum Riders about the enticing delights of riding in Pakistan, so I did have a picture in my mind of what may be in store for me. Also, having ridden previously in so-called dangerous parts of the world – Zimbabwe, Colombia etc – I take a pragmatic approach to warnings from those who have not ventured into such places.
The next few months passed in a flurry as they always do – some fun local rides and a push to get fit for the tougher than usual style of riding that I was expecting. My twice weekly personal training sessions would pay dividends for me in improved stamina and confidence on this ride.
Finally, on 17 September it was time to head to the airport for the inconveniently timed (2:00am!) flight to Dubai. My feelings were of slightly nervous excitement. I knew nobody on this trip, but that is also a great opportunity and a step outside the comfort zone.
I had 11 hours layover in Dubai, so booked a five-hour city tour, never having ventured outside the airport on previous transits. In hindsight, an airport hotel room might have been better as I had very little sleep on the flight. But time to toughen up, my driver/guide Mouhammed met me as arranged and off we went. The trip was tailored to what I wanted to see with some suggestions from Mouhammed. I did want to go up the Burj Khalifa and paid the extra to head to the 154th Lounge Floor. Well worthwhile and there were only 2 other guests there, sipping champagne at this dizzying height was surreal. Apparently due to the current middle east issues Dubai was experiencing less than 50% of the usual visitor numbers.
Back to the airport and into the very deserted Emirates Lounge where I found a quiet nook to relax before the evening flight into Islamabad.
Boarding the Islamabad flight was interesting, I was the only Westerner and the only woman travelling alone. This did not bring about any undue attention and in fact the gentleman beside me kindly stowed and retrieved my overhead bags for me.
Arrival into Islamabad was in the post-midnight hours and I was very surprised to see quite the crowd with flower garlands and streamers at the exit area – my driver found me in the melee and told me a famous cricketer had just flown in. Drats, and I had thought it was my own personal welcome to Pakistan!
About half hour to the hotel and because of the hour it was hard to gauge much about this new to me city and country. Falling into bed and finally able to get some shut-eye was bliss.
I woke the next morning feeling refreshed and made my way to the breakfast room, a good selection of eggs, toast and local dishes awaited. Once I’d finished eating, I joined the others in the group who had already arrived and were ready to start the day.
Liza Miller was on her 6th Pakistan ride and the instigator of this tour and it was a pleasure to meet her in person. Two other Australians, Julie and Wendy from South Australia had arrived the day prior along with Lindsay from Canada. Mindi from the USA was a non-riding member of the group and had arrived the previous evening with Liza. There were two more group members who would be arriving late that evening.
We discussed the day ahead and using Liza’s local intel from previous trips it was decided a cultural immersion at the local mall was a good idea! Off we headed and it was a fun time with all of us purchasing local outfits.
After lunch at the Mall, we headed to the famous Faisal Mosque, the National Mosque of Pakistan. On arriving into the parking area we got caught in the middle of a monkey turf war, we manoeuvered out of the fray with no monkey victims and into the crowds and heat.
This was my first experience of the overwhelming interest that locals take in foreign visitors, and we were swarmed by curious bystanders who wanted to practice their English and ask us how we were liking their country. Oh, and take selfies with us of course! The lack of foreign visitors was something that would be a theme throughout the two weeks.
Dinner that evening we were off to the Marriott dressed in our purchased local outfits. There was a speakeasy bar which was unmarked and only able to serve non-Muslim visitors as alcohol is illegal for locals. A discreet gin and tonic followed by a delicious Thai meal and it was to bed.
Sunday 20 September – Official Day 1
We met Ride Leader Jimmy and his wife Amber (sweep rider) who had driven in from Lahore along with ADA Operations Manager and organisational guru Hafsa, she was in charge of all the moving pieces of the trip.
A day trip was planned to the UNESCO site of Taxila which was at the ancient crossroads of the Silk Road trading routes and blended Greek, Persian and Indian cultures. The excavated relics in the museum were amazing and we walked around the ancient city and stupa of Sirkap, where the guide was selling old bronze coins from around the 2nd Century BC which are found aplenty around the local farms.
Lunch at Amber’s family house and a siesta before heading back to Islamabad in the heat of early evening rounded out the busy sightseeing day.
That evening we would meet the last two of the group to arrive, Wendy Crockett, an Iron Butt riding legend from the USA was accompanied by her nearly 12 year old pillion Lan in celebration of the upcoming birthday event.
Monday 21 September- Day 2
Today was another in Islamabad and the main activity of the day was a highly anticipated mentorship session at a local Bike Shop – the first (and likely only one) in Pakistan owned by a female. But this wasn’t until 3pm so we all decided on another trip back to the mall, and after some light shopping and finding a working ATM it was off to a delicious hummus place for lunch before heading to “Throttle Inspiration” for the session with Pakistani female riders.
This session turned out to be a real highlight of the trip, with Mehwish the owner of the shop warmly welcoming us with a shower of rose petals and a magnificent spread of food and even some dancing of which we were enthusiastic participants. The dozen or so local women riders who attended were an inspiration, having overcome barriers I could only imagine. Riding a motorcycle is not against the law for women but it is very unusual, and it takes a determined and independent woman to persevere in this activity we take for granted. The stories that were shared with us were humbling and I hope that we were able to encourage these women to “keep on riding”!
Tuesday 22 September – Day 3 (and first riding day!)
Our day started scary early with a dawn drive to the airport for the flight to Skardu and our long-awaited meeting with the bikes which would be our adventure buddies.
The short flight of under an hour was one of the most spectacular I have ever experienced, and I was fortunate to snag a window seat. The Himalaya and Karakorum ranges are just majestic in their scale and we were wonder-struck at this epic scenery with the iPhone camera working overtime to capture the views. Apparently K2 could be glimpsed but only from the other side of the plane.
After checking in to our Skardu hotel it was a short walk to the workshop where we were introduced to our bikes. Mine was a CF Moto Ibex, 450cc. I was happy to find it had a low seat fitted and was low enough for me to be confident in putting my feet down. The bikes were a mix of the CF Moto 450’s and Honda 150cc models.
A shakedown ride followed to the very scenic area of Shigar, the gateway to K2, through amazing desert and mountain landscapes which drew the eye from the road all too often. Lunch at an old fort was a delicious buffet then a relax in the gardens before the ride back to Skardu and prep and re-pack for the following full day of riding. Some of the group headed to a loud local polo match – interesting that polo is a popular pastime especially in Northern Pakistan. Cricket is of course the other much loved sport, along with soccer.
Wednesday 23 September – Day 4
Along with a few other members of the group I awoke with a funny tummy and after a light breakfast and some pre-emptive meds we hit the road by 8:00am.
A lookout stop just out of town gave the opportunity for a leg stretch and neck stretch to take in this giant scale landscape we were riding through. A car full of local police stopped and of course we had to do a group photo with them.
A long stretch of riding was enjoyed through a spectacular river canyon before stopping for coffee and chai beside a boulder-strewn creek, its fast-flowing waters rushing past just metres away.
Back on the bikes to push on and another scenic stop to view the 9th highest mountain in the world, named Nanga Parbat – but which our group christened K9!
Onto the Karakorum Highway and then a stop outside the large town of Gilget in the early afternoon for refreshments as it was going to be a late lunch. The lunch venue an hour or so later at Rakaposhi Peak viewpoint was stunning and is famous for a 6000m sheer drop which makes climbing it a death-defying undertaking.
Our accommodation in Karimabad in the Hunza Valley was for two nights and had spectacular mountain views and glimpses of the Lady Finger peak, a distinctive rock spire visible when the clouds cleared.
Thursday 24 September – rest day
A casual morning was welcomed by the group, a few of us still had some tummy issues and it was nice not to have to saddle up the bikes.
A walk to the 800 year old Baltit Fort was arduous and at an altitude of around 3000m a lack of stamina and general lethargy was being felt. The Apple Watch recorded my blood oxygen level at 93%, which was lower than ideal but supposedly normal at this altitude.
Some light shopping in the markets and a delicious lunch rounded out the day nicely. A local home-cooked dinner that night was a treat, dining in a wonderfully lit courtyard with a fire pit was a welcome tonic for our overloaded digestive systems. The local food in Northern Pakistan is mild and fragrant with a Persian influence and plentiful vegetables. Hemp grows everywhere and is used to make a tasty tea, which is a pleasant way to finish a meal. No, we weren’t missing alcohol – really!
Friday 25 September – Day 6, to the Chinese border!
Up early for an 8:00am departure for this huge day, we fuelled up which was the traditional conga-line of bikes and compared to home the fuel was quite cheap, but prices changed a bit over the journey. At least 3 attendants would swarm in to assist us and we never had to do anything as menial as pump the fuel ourselves.
Our first stop was quite close by at the Sacred Rocks of Hunza, featuring early rock inscriptions from the 1st to 16th Century and were apparently a Silk Road “visitors book” as they are written in many ancient scripts.
Traversing the Pak China Friendship tunnels was a cool but sobering experience, these were built after the highway was destroyed by a landslide in 2010. These tunnels, a series of five, took five years to build and looking at the area they are built in are an engineering marvel. The 21 kilometre long Attabad Lake was created by this same landslide which destroyed villages and killed 20 people and displaced thousands.
The scenery climbing up higher into the Karakorum Ranges just got more amazing and the feeling it brought on was verging on pure rapture. We stopped at a viewpoint before the town of Passu which gave us the opportunity to fully immerse ourselves in the sheer grandeur of this landscape that looks like it could have been an extravagant AI creation.
The temperature was cooling down and we stopped in a village for a warming chai and fresh warm flat bread. A few police check points followed, one of note had a baby Ibex who was being mothered by a goat, Ibex are quite endangered in the region.
A little further on, a farmer herding yaks and goats on the road slowed our progress and a fight between two well-endowed yaks broke out, this was quite intimidating when amongst it on a motorcycle and not able to move – what if I beep my horn? Will that make it worse? Luckily the fighting duo moved along with no injury to riders or bikes or seemingly to either yak.
I had imagined the road to the border to be tight hairpin bends but the sweeping corners with panoramic vistas were a delight. The last half hour to the border did bring the expected hairpin bends and the altitude climbed quickly with resultant rapidly cooling temps. I had meant to change out my summer gloves (which had holes in the fingers) at the last police check point but had got distracted by the baby Ibex so I was really feeling the cooling temp with fingers numbing. The CF Moto also does not have heated grips – I know, first world problems!
The road condition was getting a bit average with frost heaved sections of bitumen and several gravel sections where rock slides had been partially removed, but overall much better condition than expected.
The carpark at the border suddenly appeared and we all pulled in. My phone recorded a temperature of 2°C but it was starting to sleet and with the high altitude and wind it did seem much colder. I quickly changed gloves and wrapped my head in a neck buff. A coffee and a check of the blood oxygen level – now 87%, then a ride in one of the support vehicles to the actual border. Apparently it used to be possible to ride to it but now you have use the carpark. I did not go to the highest ATM in the World, as it is often out of currency we were told.
I was starting to feel out of sorts at this altitude with a tingly face and quite breathless. The only cure was to descend which we all did and the delight of riding the amazing road in reverse was a definite treat and we warmed up rather quickly descending through those amazing corners.
A late Yak Burger lunch and then to the Zen Hotel, our lovely accommodation at Lake Attabad. An early quiet night was in order as we were all overwhelmed by the day – and the late Yak Burger!
Saturday 26 September – Day 7
This day was another cultural excursion experience, starting with a cooking class at Café Zero km. We learned how to make delicious local potato and herb stuffed flat bread, there was certainly an art to get the thin dimensions needed but the end result was devoured enthusiastically.
The next visit was to a local school where the pupils had come in on their day off to greet us with dancing and singing. The school is very basic by our standards and our group donated to assist with essential items. The teachers are all clearly devoted to giving these kids a well-rounded education and use this opportunity for English language practice for the students. We were gifted knitted headbands made by the children as a souvenir of our visit.
The final visits for the day were to “The Old House” in Gulmit, a traditional style residence and a lady’s carpet weaving collective where ornate hand woven rugs were proudly displayed. Several of our group made purchases, one very special piece had taken the lady a year to finish. She was tearful when it was purchased as she could now take her mother to the hospital. A sobering experience for western consumers for sure.
Back to the Zen Hotel and a delicious group dinner with some local Hunza Wine, which had to be in an unmarked container due to the strict alcohol rules. This was more like a Port style of wine and a couple of glasses ensured a sound sleep before what would be an early departure for our final day of riding.
Sunday 27 September – Day 8
We departed at 7:30am as we had to make it all the way back to Skardu, over 300km away, and these are roads that going over 80kmh is rarely possible – so a potentially long final day ahead.
We stopped back at the Rakaposhi view spot so some of us could purchase trinkets, I got my Pakistan flag fridge magnet, and then a little later a chai and fries stop to refuel in the warming temperatures.
Returning on the same road was not in any way tedious as the different perspective was welcome and the traffic was handled with more confidence.
The last half hour to get back into the hotel in Skardu however was traffic chaos with every small motorcycle, pedestrian, truck, goat, chicken and cow competing for space on the narrow strip of bitumen.
It was with a sense of pride that we’d made it, but also regret that we didn’t have more riding days when we dismounted the bikes for the final time. The CF Moto 450 Ibex went like a champ, and coped with the conditions admirably.
A re-pack with our gear left at the hotel, and it was off to dinner for a banquet at the Bazaar. The evening was rounded out by Jimmy giving us a song out on the lawn of the hotel. Jimmy Khan is a well-known musician in Pakistan and it was a real treat to hear him perform.
He was competing for a while with the call to prayer from the local Mosque. Having travelled to many Muslim countries, I found Pakistan to be a little more “dialled-down” in the volume of what can often be the ear splitting call. Although this one was delivered in a rather uninspiring monotone which the group decided needed the assistance of a local DJ perhaps to the beat of “I like to move it, move it” but “I like to worship, worship”. That one was the winner!
Mon 28 September – Day 9 – return to Islamabad
Heading to the airport, we knew the end was in sight but there was more adventure to be had! The turbulence on the flight from Skardu to Islamabad was severe and scary, made even more so by the man in front of me chanting prayers. There were announcements – only in Urdu, the local language but the gist was that we might not be able to land in Islamabad and have to divert a long way south to Lahore.
Thankfully we landed as planned (maybe thanks to the prayers…) and we transferred back to our starting hotel for an in-house pizza dinner, thanks Dominos, and the required group photo in our finery.
I had only a few hours at the hotel as I was the first of the group to depart Pakistan, and it was an emotional farewell to this group of inspirational women – and Ride Leader Jimmy! We got to meet ADA founder Moin Khan who joined us for dinner. Moin has a fascinating back-story about riding home to Pakistan from San Francisco in 2011 and deciding to lead rides to dispel the negative stereotypes about his home country.
Tues 29 September – Day 10 and final day
My Emirates flight left on schedule at about 3:00am, a 5 hour layover in Dubai and it was onto the long haul back to Brisbane via the dubious luxury of premium economy (not worth the extra!) arriving early on the morning of our 31st wedding anniversary!
This is a trip that will stay in my memory, and I consider the ride up to the Chinese border the best riding day EVER (to date)! Scenery and roads and riding with an inspiring group of women while also having the opportunity to experience the everyday lives of the Pakistani people made it unforgettable. A Different Agenda were a great tour company to deal with and their website included handy short videos on packing and what to expect – a tip I am very grateful for was to byo coffee if you are fussy, I took along coffee bags and was so pleased I did as the local offering is mostly instant.
Can I recommend Pakistan as a tourist destination? Most definitely!
